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The FDA classifies creams and lotions as cosmetics, which are defined as having no medical value. So the FDA regulates them less strictly than it does drugs. This means that products don't need to undergo rigorous testing for safety and effectiveness before approval to go on the market.

The FDA does step in, however, when advertisements portray cosmetics as drugs or when cosmetics contain ingredients that may pose a potential health hazard to consumers. For example, in 2002, the FDA ordered manufacturers of products containing alpha hydroxy acids to include a warning label stating that the acids may increase the risk of sunburn.

Because the FDA doesn't evaluate cosmetic products for effectiveness, there's no guarantee that any over-the-counter product will reduce your wrinkles.

Consider these points when judging the merits of using a wrinkle cream:

 Lower doses. Nonprescription wrinkle creams contain lower concentrations of active ingredients than do prescription creams. So results, if any, are limited and usually short-lived.

 Latest research. Research suggests that certain ingredients may improve wrinkles. However, most anti-wrinkle creams haven't been subjected to the comprehensive, objective research required to prove this benefit.

 Cost. Cost has no relationship to effectiveness. Just because a wrinkle cream is more costly, may not mean that it's more effective than a less-costly product.

 Daily use. You'll likely need to use the wrinkle cream once or twice a day for many weeks before noticing any improvements. And once you discontinue using the product, your skin may return to its original appearance.

 Side effects. Some products may cause skin irritation, rashes, burning or redness. Be sure to read and follow the product instructions to limit possible side effects.

For more information, visit mayoclinic.com.

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A newborn beauty brand is taking on the aging process here. NuBo, which made its debut in Harrods in November, is positioning itself as a "positive cosmeceutical." For instance, it claims to offer cosmeceutical-strength formulations without controversial chemical ingredients, including parabens, petrochemicals and sodium lauryl sulfate.

The collection boasts "Cell Dynamic" technology that is said to convert free radicals produced as a waste by-product by skin cells into oxygen and so stimulate cell renewal.

NuBo, which was founded by Marina Shcherbinina, a former retail consultant, consists of Cell Dynamic The Essence, a serum; Cell Dynamic Day Performance SPF 20, a daily moisturizer; Cell Dynamic Overnight Recharge, a night cream, and Cell Dynamic Overnight Recharge Totale, a night cream for mature and dry skin. In addition, the line includes Intensive Treatments: Vitamin C 12 Percent Concentrate, Lifting Eye Serum, Hydrating Lipids Complex and Plumping Oxygen Boost, as well as two daily cleansers. There’s also Voile, a balm purported to be a treatment-makeup hybrid

For more information, visit healthywomen.org.

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The effectiveness of anti-wrinkle creams depends in part on the active ingredient or ingredients. Here are some common ingredients that may result in slight to modest improvements in wrinkles.

 Retinol. Retinol is a vitamin A compound and is the first antioxidant to be widely used in nonprescription wrinkle creams. Antioxidants are substances that neutralize free radicals — unstable oxygen molecules that break down skin cells and cause wrinkles. Retinol is less potent than the vitamin A derivative tretinoin, a topical treatment approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for treating wrinkles. Tretinoin is available only by prescription. Avoid vitamin A derivatives if you are pregnant or may become pregnant because they increase the risk of birth defects.

 Hydroxy acids. Alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids and poly hydroxy acids are all synthetic versions of acids derived from sugar-containing fruits. These acids are exfoliants — substances that remove the upper layer of old, dead skin and stimulate the growth of smooth, evenly pigmented new skin. Because hydroxy acids increase your susceptibility to sun damage, always wear sunscreen during use and for at least one week afterward.

 Coenzyme Q10. Coenzyme Q10 is a nutrient that helps regulate energy production in cells. Some studies have shown reduction in fine wrinkles around the eyes with no side effects. Other studies show that application before sun exposure protects against sun damage.

 Copper peptides. Copper is a trace element found in every cell. In products applied to the skin, it's combined with small protein fragments called peptides. Copper peptides enhance wound healing. They also stimulate production of collagen and may enhance the action of antioxidants.

 Kinetin. A plant growth factor, kinetin may improve wrinkles and uneven pigmentation with minimal irritation. It's unclear how it works, but it may help reduce wrinkles by helping skin retain moisture and by stimulating the production of collagen. It may also be a potent antioxidant.

 Tea extracts. Green, black and oolong tea contain compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Green tea extracts are the ones most commonly found in wrinkle creams.

For more information, visit mayoclinic.com.

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